For nearly four decades, courageous smugglers brought nearly 40,000 Lithuanian-language books into the country each year when it was prohibited under Russian rule.
The Panemunė road, which follows the gentle curves of the Nemunas—Lithuania’s largest river—extends over 100 kilometers and marks the former border between Lithuania and East Prussia (now Kaliningrad, Russia). Locals regard it as the most romantic road in Lithuania, as it passes by a series of 17th-century castles, Renaissance-era mansions, and picturesque towns.
However, the route is perhaps best recognized for being the site of a remarkable movement in the late 19th century that contributed to the preservation of Lithuanian, often deemed the world’s oldest surviving Indo-European language.
Constructed in the early 13th century, Panemunė was built along a series of early medieval fortresses and castles intended to safeguard the Grand Duchy of Lithuania from the invading Teutonic forces from Prussia. By the 1800s, it had evolved into a significant trade and travel route as the fortresses transformed into mansions for the nobility, with smaller towns developing around them.
Among the many regal sights along the road is the Castle of Panemunė, a 17th-century manor featuring intricate frescoes and a park with cascading ponds, which has been converted into an opulent hotel and artist residence. Ten kilometers east of the castle lies Raudone (“The Red Castle”), a 16th-century fortress that was partially destroyed during World War II but has since been restored. It now offers horseback riding, archery lessons, and a weekly food and arts fair.
A further 20 km east, you’ll find the ancient city of Veliuona and the castle hill of Seredzius. A 30-minute hike up the wooden steps to the top of the lush green hill offers breathtaking views of the Nemunas River below. As the road curves in one final sweeping bend before reaching the city of Kaunas, the towers of Raudondvaris Castle come into sight. This sprawling 17th-century estate, located at the confluence of the Nemunas and Nevezis rivers, now features a concert hall, labyrinth park, museum, and a restaurant.
Eglė Speičienė, founder of the local travel agency TavoGidas, describes the Panemunė road as the “paradise road” of Lithuania, celebrated for its exceptional scenery, rich history, and numerous cultural experiences. Travelers can enjoy activities ranging from boat trips along the River Nemunas, local dandelion wine tastings, to exploring art and history museums, food fairs, and cultural events in the Renaissance mansions lining the road. With its many castles, rolling hills, and boutique wineries, some visitors even liken it to France’s famed Loire Valley.
However, the Panemunė road is not just known for its stunning scenery and enchanting castles. It is also the site of a unique Lithuanian movement from the late 19th century that significantly shaped the nation’s character: book smuggling. From 1865 to 1904, the Lithuanian language was banned under tsarist Russian rule, which controlled much of the region at that time. This ban prohibited the printing, possession, and distribution of any publications in Lithuanian using the Latin alphabet. Rather than leading to a complete Russification of the country, this prohibition had the opposite effect, fueling a strong sense of national identity and resistance among the Lithuanian people.
A vast network of resistance publishers, book smugglers, and distributors emerged, resulting in the printing of over three million books, scientific papers, textbooks, and newspapers in Lithuanian in East Prussia and the US, where there were significant populations of Lithuanian émigrés. Historian Vytautas Merkys notes that during this 39-year span, more than 40,000 Lithuanian-language publications were smuggled into the country each year, reaching villages, parishes, and towns throughout the nation via the Panemunė road.
The road’s closeness to both East Prussia and Poland, where the books were brought in, made it a crucial entry point for smugglers. Tilžė (now Sovetsk, Kaliningrad) was one of the primary crossing points, while Kaunas, the final destination of the road, served as Lithuania’s capital from 1919 to 1940 and became a hub for cultural resistance against Russian rule.
“Panemunė essentially acted as the main channel through which the Lithuanian printed press and literature entered the country. The River Nemunas played a vital role in facilitating these crossings. Some smugglers even swam across with bundles of books strapped to their bodies, while others transported them in steamboats or enlisted merchants for assistance,” explained historian and educator Vaidas Banys. “[These] prohibited books, newspapers, and religious texts penetrated deep into the nation.”
Banys emphasizes that these book smugglers were instrumental in preserving the Lithuanian language. They often carried up to 80 pounds of printed Lithuanian materials, smuggling them from East Prussia and other border areas across the Nemunas River, then transporting them along the backroads of Panemunė in horse-drawn carts, cleverly concealing them among hay, furniture, or even empty coffins.
Many book smugglers faced tragic fates, yet their contributions and memories remain essential. One notable smuggler from Kėdainiai was captured by Russian officers and suffered severe beatings that led to his madness. Even after the ban was lifted, he continued to wander with books on his back, serving as a poignant reminder to the community. Parents would tell their children, “Look at what our language has cost us; study it and cherish it,” as Banys recounted.
When the ban on the Lithuanian language was lifted in 1904, Juozas Masiulis, a well-known book smuggler, opened a bookstore in Panevezys. This shop is now recognized as Lithuania’s oldest bookstore and is still in operation today. Every year on March 16, the nation honors the Day of the Book Smugglers.
The river ferry near Vilkija, the last remaining ferry on the Nemunas, has become a popular attraction along the Panemunė road, allowing travelers to experience what it was like to cross the river on smaller boats. In Kaunas, the final destination along the Panemunė road, visitors can also view the Wall of the Book Smugglers, a monument dedicated to those who lost their lives during their dangerous journeys.
